Observations About Alcohol and Other Drugs in Holland
© 1997 Robert J. Chapman, PhD
As promised, I am writing this note to share my experiences while
traveling in Holland over the break. My itinerary included 2 days in
London, 6 days in the Hague (Den Haag), and 2 days in Amsterdam. During
this time I was unable to coordinate schedules so that I would be able
to meet with any Dutch AOD professionals, but I did have the opportunity
to observe and note several interesting items.
First and by far the most prominent "drug" observation I have to make
regards tobacco. While no stranger to traveling over seas, I had
forgotten just how many people outside this country smoke tobacco. It
seemed that every where I went, people were smoking. While seeing
someone smoke in this country is no rarity, especially on a college
campus, I was very cognizant of the numbers of individuals who were
smoking. This was true in London, Den Haag, and Amsterdam. It was also
true for individuals of all ages.
On several occasions, I was out at a restaurant or other like public
place and had to leave in order to "catch my breath." I took my son to
the Omniversum in Den Haag for an afternoon performance in their
planetarium. This was attended primarily by secondary ed. students.
Immediately upon exiting the theater, it seemed as if the majority of
the students "lighted up" and this appeared to be with the full approval
of the adults (teachers?) who were obviously accompanying these
students.
I was reminded of just how far we have come in this country with
regards to turning the tables on smoking. When I was in high school in
the sixties, I seem to recall smoking as being as prevalent as I found
it to be in Holland. Currently, the numbers of smokers, nationally, is
down (although there are alarming stats with regards to adolescents
beginning to smoke and numbers of women who smoke) and the public areas
permitting smoking limited. I was unaware of how much I appreciate
these "smoke-free environments" until faced with their absence while in
Europe. As I prepared for this trip and decided to do an informal
ethnographic study of drug use behavior, nicotine was not what I
expected to have rank as the most notable drug consumption observed on
this sojourn.
With regards to alcohol consumption, I was not aware of any official
"drinking age" while such could have been posted in the stores I
frequented, but not reading Dutch, went unnoticed. What I did observe
was that alcohol--beer, wine, and spirits--were readily available in
most areas. Both in grocery stores and "spirit shoppes," alcohol could
be readily purchased. Even in the convenience stores where I stopped to
note inventory, one could purchase beer or wine without difficulty.
What I found very interesting was that I saw no public intoxication in
the eight days I was in Holland. Granted, I was staying in a rather
fashionable section of Den Haag and my travels through that city were
somewhat limited by the use of trams which would pass through an area
without allowing much time to note particulars. But still, in my entire
time in Den Haag, I noted only one individual who was consuming a beer
on the street and that individual appeared to be neither indigent nor
intoxicated and the beer was consumed openly as one might drink a Pepsi.
Obviously, I was most intrigued by the legal availability of marijuana
and the famous "smoking coffee houses" of Holland. While these were
present in Den Haag, they were not as available and seemed to be located
in a couple sections of the city (the South East sections of the city,
on the way to Delft). Amsterdam was where I encountered the
proliferation of coffee houses, although these were equally distributed
between "smoking" and non-smoking. There appears to be somewhat of a
controversy between these two type of coffee house, although this is
presented by some Americans I spoke with while there rather than fact
based on extensive observations. Apparently, the traditional
coffeehouse only serves coffees and tea, "warm" [sic] chocolate, and
"spa" or water (with or without bubbles). I visited several of these
establishments and found them to be like a cafe, many with tables on the
street although the weather was much too cold for having a coffee
outside.
While mentioning the traditional coffee house, I should add that
another ethnocentric habit I have developed is my view of coffee. I am
a big coffee drinker and love coffee about as much as any beverage.
While I experiment with flavors and amounts of caffeine in the beans I
use, I have come to view coffee as meaning "perked" or "drip" coffee. I
had great difficulty in finding such coffee any place I visited during
the entire trip. When I would order coffee, I would receive espresso or
a shot of espresso with hot water added. For any reader who drinks
espresso regularly, you will smile as I say this was not what I had come
to be accustomed to with regards to a "cup o' Joe." I even had the
opportunity to drink some Turkish coffee which is very interesting and
another story in and of itself, including having my fortune read in the
grounds remaining in the over turned cup after drinking my brew.
Anyway, back to the coffee houses. The smoking coffee houses were as
you would expect, establishments where marijuana was on the menu. These
establishments appeared to be set up on two or three levels or floors.
On the ground floor, one could purchase coffee, tea, spa, etc. Posted
on the wall over the coffee bar was a sign that announced that smoking
was available on the second floor. The one house that I spent the most
time in was called, "The Pink Floyd" and located on the Haar Lemer
Strassa in Amsterdam. Upon entering this establishment, my senses were
simultaneously flooded with loud, pulsing techno-rock and the
unmistakable smell of marijuana. The patrons-and there were not many as
it was about 5 PM on a Saturday--were sitting at the coffee bar acting
much like any patrons in any tavern or coffee shop I have ever visited
in the states. The focus was on conversation and there was light banter
between the "bar maid," a young woman of approximately 23 and the people
sitting at the bar drinking coffee.
As the restroom, "toilet" as it is called in Holland, (WC or "water
closet" in London) was located on the second floor, the site of the
smoking portion of the establishment, I had the opportunity to observe
this part of the coffee house. I found what anyone would find in any
tavern in any town in this country, people sitting and talking. The
only difference, as you can guess, is these friends were smoking pot
instead of drinking a beer. It should be noted that posted prominently
on the door of every smoking coffee house I passed was a sign indicating
that one had to be 18 to enter. These signs, interestingly, were always
in English. When I asked about this, I was told that many American will
visit these establishments and they are not always "of age."
As an aside, in Amsterdam, I was aware of the proliferation of what I
have always called "head shoppes." Stores that sold everything from
bongs, pipes, and roach clips to papers, stickers, and jewelry were
quite easy to find. The only difference with regards to these
establishments from what I note right here in Philadelphia, is the
number of such establishments. I can think of several places on South
Street in Philly that have everything these Amsterdam shoppes have, the
difference being, there were far more of the shoppes in Amsterdam than
in Philly. What I did not know as I was not brash enough to find out
(and perhaps a reader can help me with this) is whether or not pot was
available for sale in these shoppes. What I neglected to mention when
talking about "The Pink Floyd," was that one could purchase "Pink Floyd"
rolling papers and other paraphernalia emblazoned with the particular
shoppe's logo.
Again, in the time I was in Amsterdam, I did not see any "skid row," no
public intoxication, or other "refer madness" type activity in the
streets. I must say again, I was limited in both time and access to the
city so it is quite likely that I only saw what most tourists see. But
one thing I did find interesting was that most of the street performers
I would observe were speaking American English. This is not to suggest
that there is anything wrong with street performers (some of my fondest
memories of visiting San Francisco are the wonderful street performers I
had the chance to observe there), but it is to say that while such
performers were not a rarity, they were primarily Americans.
I will close with a brief comment on what I found to be the most
unexpected observation of this trip and that was the proliferation of
sex-shoppes and the prominence of, shall I say, sexual entrepreneurs.
While wandering about Amsterdam, I found myself in its famous "red light
district." The best way I can describe this district is a narrow,
quaint, 17th century street. The majority of buildings, much like row
homes here in Philly, had a red neon light over a large front picture
window with women of various ages and races in provocative poses. As
one would pass down the street, each women in turn would tap on the
window and beckon the passer-by enter. While I am far from a prude, I
found this quite disquieting. Upon realizing where I was, I looked
about and as far as I could see down the street there were red lights
and shoppes with large garish neon signs advertising sex and sexual
paraphernalia. An interesting observation that did not occur to me
until after I had exited the red light district was that the street in
the district was quiet and relatively deserted compared to the rest of
Amsterdam. Now this was early evening and the busy-ness of the street
may have been a function of the time.
These have been a few observations based on my recent trip to Holland.
I welcome any additions that readers may be able to make based on their
experience or familiarity with Holland.
To read more essays by Dr. Chapman, click HERE